1939 19' Custom
 

1939 19' Custom with one piece covering board

 

July 27th 1938, the first 19' Custom is delivered from the Chris-Craft plant. She is hull #48500 in a series that will span to 48646 for the 1939 model year.

 

Hull Numbers

48500-48643
48646 exported as a 1939 model
Total 1939 production = 145

 

Engine and Model Data

929 “KA” “K” 95 HP 39 $1650.00
930 “LC” 125 HP 32 $1850.00
931 “MA” “M” 130 HP 73 $1990.00
Spec. Chrysler Crown 95 HP 3 $ ?

 

We will start our in depth look at the 19' Custom series with the hardware for the model year. It is my intention to dissect the boat piece by piece, topic by topic to reveal the true differences between the model years of 1939-1942.

 

Hardware: Fairleader

This unique piece seems to have picked up the nickname of “Pig nose”. It was standard equipment for the 1939. Screws to fasten should be #8 oval head common. At this time finding an original example is difficult but reproductions are available.

 

Lifting Rings

The lifting rings are unique to the 1939 model year with respect to the future model years. When you look at the '39 and then look at the '40 you might not catch the difference right away—but look closely. The '39 model used “double-winged” eyes with a wing on fore and aft. (See the picture below). These eyes were used throughout the 1939 production. It is very interesting to note that in some factory photos there is a 1939 model with the 1940 style lifting rings. We can only speculate that some time Chris used different hardware during a production without making a design change memo on it.

 

Deck Horn

This is a very “of the period” item. The “turtle” horn as I like to call it was standard equipment for the 19' Custom. It was used throughout 1940 production as well. This piece is not that difficult to find these days. Chris-Craft used it on many different boats in that era. You can find them on Ebay or with some of the parts guys from time to time. The bowl on top is typically cracked and cannot be repaired. A big thanks to Jim Murdock for solving this problem and creating a stamped replacement. See the parts page for more detail or send me an e-mail with your questions.

 

Bow Light

The bow light used on the 1939 model is the same for all the others. It is a standard casting that Chris-Craft used for many years. The jack staff is vertical. While we are on the subject, there are several places to get a new staff and pennant. The pennant should be sewn cotton—not nylon.

 

Cutwater

The cutwater is not the end of the world if you are missing it or have one that is damaged beyond use. Chris used these on many boats and there are sources for reproductions. My only caution is to make sure you have a pattern for the new one to get the size correct. The very best method is to get your new one custom fit to your hull. See the parts page for link.

 

Fender Cleats

These were standard equipment for all the 19' Customs. The only exception is if the boat was special ordered without them. Again there are reproductions available from many sources. They measure 2" in length and six were used. Two on the bow, two amidships and two on the stern.

 

Bugatti Windshield

You can’t help but fall head-over-heels for the style of the period. Dare I say very Art-Deco? The “Bugatti” style was standard equipment for the 1939 and 1940 model years. We do know of one 1940 boat that was special ordered with a Sportsman windshield.

I think you will agree that the unit is more form than function. It can be rotated to any angle desired and fixed in that position with thumb clamps. Often you will see the screens down over the deck to get the full effect of the wind in your face. It is actually two separate units and it would be extremely rare to find an original if you were missing it. I know of only one place to get a reproduction and you better be sitting down when you look at the price. I think my wife said it best when she described it as “The boat with the cool sunglasses!”

 

Step Pads

One might think this item to be simple and straight forward but think again. Lets start with the 1939 single-piece covering board model. As you can see from the picture belowm the hideum is interrupted by the step pad frame on both cockpits. A decorative trim piece covers the break. As we move into the 1939 two-piece covering board models the speculation begins. The question arises about proper step pad placement after the cover board change. We know for sure that the 1941 model has the step pad moved down so that the hideum is not interrupted. From my research and looking at my own boat and original factory photos I have come to the conclusion that the proper placement for the frames on the '39 and '40 models should break the hideum.

1939 single-piece covering board

 

1939 two-piece covering board with step pad moved down

 

1940 hull #48672 shows the original screw pattern up in the hideum area.

 

“Bear Claw” vents

These vents were standard on the 1939 and 1940 model years. Later they were changed to four “cup” vents in mid 1941. I think they are some of the best looking pieces of hardware that CC ever put on. Originals are still out there but you will have to look hard. Reproductions can be had from a number of sources.

 

Hatch Handles

Nothing too unusual about the handles sometimes referred to as “T” handles. They certainly fit the period with regards to shape. Take note of the proper bolt that holds the handle. Reproductions are available.

 

Stern flag pole base and flag pole

The stern pole base is a vented one and reproductions are available. The flagpole uses a “Bee Hive” glass fixture at the top. You can pick up an entire pole ready to finish from several sources. Note the location at which the flag is secured to the pole.

 

Gas Cap and trim ring

These were standard items used on most pre-war boats. They differ from their post-war sisters only in the fact that they are not perfectly round. The correct one has scalloped indentations.

Special note; look at the location of the pole in the picture. This is a 1939 one piece covering board model. You will note that when the design change went to a two piece the location of the pole was moved aft closer to the gas cap. Reproductions available.

 

Rear Chocks

Here is another example of something you might think is straight forward but is not. The chocks used on most 1939 and '40’s are 5" CLOSED chocks. Now what gets strange is that I have viewed a factory photo of a '39 (in the 1940 catalog) and it clearly has OPEN chocks. My best guess is that most all of the boat have closed chocks with the possible exception of a few that had open installed at the factory. The guy on the line might have put a few on one particular day while he was waiting for the next batch of closed chocks to show up. It’s possible!

 

Specifications and Styling

We will start with the covering boards. Starting with the first hull #48500 Chris-Craft used a single piece of 16/4 board to form the curves you know today as the “Barrelback”. To say that the manufacture of these boats was challenging has to be an understatement. Many have wondered, over the years, how many of these were actually produced. Thanks to Bud Besch of California, we know that the cut off was around hull #48598. At that time Chris-Craft made the design change and went with a two-piece covering board to finish out the 1939 model year. This two-piece design continued throughout the 1940-42 years, which we will get into later. It is easy to tell the difference because of the white stripe that separates the two piece model. It has become increasingly difficult to find 4" thick Phillipine mahogany. There seems to be no supply in the country. Most restorers have resorted to using Honduras mahogany.

 

Dashboard and instrumentation

Moving on to the dash board style we can easily see the distinctive features on the 1939. Most apparent is the glove box on the left and the instrument cluster set in its own frame.

The 1939 dash with the glove box remained the same throughout the production. With regards to the instrument cluster there are some differences. You will note that in the pic above the ignition switch is on the right and not part of the instrument cluster. Look at the picture below and you will see the key in the cluster.

CC engineering memo dated 1-31-39 has documented this change. From #48500-48579 the 1939 model should have the switch in the instrument cluster. Hull # 48580 moved the switch over to the right. See picture below.

As far as the instruments go, they were black-faced and 1939 was the only year the 19' had a clock. If you are missing the panel and or instruments they can be made—just don’t pass out when you hear the price.

 

Steering Wheel

Moving along to the steering wheel for the 1939 we have a very attractive Banjo wheel. This wheel has 3 spokes and each spoke has a total of 5 wires. In the past there has been some controversy about the proper color. Research has revealed from several sources that the original wheel is a 1937-38 Chevrolet. This special wheel had what we are calling a speckled or marbleized look throughout the plastic. There was a matching horn button for it and the column was painted black for '39. I have personally looked at an original wheel and observed this speckle, it is authentic. If you study the original factory photos you can see the speckle even in black and white. In years past this wheel has never been available for restorers. Thanks to Al Schinnerer at California Classic Boats, this rare and authentic piece is now available. The picture below is of a 1940 model that used the same speckle but only 4 wires per spoke.

 

Upholstery and interior

The predominant color of the interior for 1939 seems to be maroon leather. The exact shade is very speculative and there is no one standard for judging. There were a few exceptions including one special order red, white and blue exported to Hawaii. Wouldn’t it be cool to find and document that boat? Interior details consisted of box-spring seat bases with Kapok filled cushions. Matching crash pad with hideum lined the cockpits. The floor covering of the period was black ribbed vinyl still available from Classic Boat Connection. One would assume that the flooring would have been glued down originally, but some owners have used Velcro to hold in place. I’m sure it is much easier to clean out of the boat. Speculation exists over the exact placement of the crash pad seam. Most all agree that the seam is on the sides near the step pad, but some wonder if it should be in front of or behind the step pad. This is a question I don’t think will ever be answered. I’ll bet that the upholstery worker that was doing it originally did it the best way he saw fit. Whichever way you choose to do it no points will de deducted from the restoration. What is more important is the quality of the installation. I would like to mention a good source for leather hides is Steve Northuis at Macatawa Bay Boat Works in Michigan. Here is a picture of the rear cockpit showing the back of the front seat.

 

The acoustic panel behind the rear cockpit seat was a new one on me until I attended the Tahoe show in August 2001. The panel is of the variety that can be purchased at many of your hardware stores. Here is the scuttlebutt from Tahoe. The panel should be painted with bilge paint and can be one piece or three. See picture below.

 

Stain Color

When I first started researching my Barrelback restoration it was brought to my attention that the stain color for pre-war boats was not the same as post-war. Probably the most common stain used for current restorations is the Interlux #573 Chris-Craft matched stain. This color is commonly accepted as the correct original replacement. Not so for the pre-war boats, most everyone knows that the pre-war stain was lighter and more brown that the post-war. The big problem is that no one can be certain of the correct color. Every professional restorer has their own idea and “Special Stain” that they use. Some will tell you and others will not. Here are a few ideas that some have shared. One restorer uses Pettit brown mahogany. Another uses their own custom mix of Pettit and Minwax. You get the same answer with regards to the covering board stain. One thing that can be said is that you should not have points deducted for a certain shade verses another unless you are just blatantly wrong. Search out other boats and compare the differences and choice the shade and method that you think looks the best while being authentic as possible. This theory should be used for the upholstery interior shade, instrument face shade, bilge paint, engine color etc.

 

boot stripe

The waterline stripe is another thing you might think is straightforward but some disagree on the subject. In my research I have found some that say it should be 1" wide and some that say 1 1/8". I really don’t know what is exactly correct. Again this subject may not have an exact answer. I will continue to look for documentation on the issue.

 

Chris-Craft Model “M” 130 hp with single-piece manifold

For the 1939 model year there were many engine choices to satisfy the potential buyers. We will focus on the option that was most predominant—the “M” 130 HP. Of the total 145 boats produced, 73 were Model 931’s with the “M” power plant. The “M” was the Hercules industrial block, reworked by Chris-Craft and fitted with marine accessories. Specs are as follows:

6-Cylinders
4 in. bore, 4 ¾" stroke
320.4 Cu. In.
Weight, 850 lbs. Without water and oil

 

Well I know what you are saying. “This engine is the same as any other post-war model.” Wrong! The pre-war “M” has several distinguishing characteristics to its post-war brother.

The most obvious difference that is associated with "Pre-war" was the use of a one-piece intake and exhaust manifold. There were actually two different castings of this item. The early version of the manifold is casting #1725. This first casting can be easily identified by its flat, port (outer) side and was used into the late 1930’s. The second version was casting #1935. It can be recognized by its 45-degree bulge on the port side, half way down. Both of these manifolds worked fine, but I understand that they were prone to rusting and “blowing out” as well as freeze damage. Chris-Craft must have heard about the problems because they discontinued the one-piece version in early 1941. It has not been clear until now when they switched to the separate intake and exhaust manifolds. Through research I found that the last “M” serial number to use the single-piece manifold was #11461. At that point it was a simple matter to go back through the hull cards to find the last 19' Custom with a “M” that had a serial number closest to #11461.

Pre-war “M” with early #1725 one-piece intake/exhaust manifold

The answer turned out to be hull #48832, a 1941 Model 107 with “M” serial #11449, January 3rd 1940. A big thanks to fellow CCABC member Jim McLeod for helping me out. Jim lives just a few miles from the Mariners Museum and volunteered to drop by and find the closest hull card.

While we are on the subject lets discuss the exhaust elbows used. This has become quite a problem for people that are going for an authentic restoration. It seems that Chris-Craft used a special elbow for the 19' Custom when it was first developed. This elbow comes out and turns to port like all the ones we know but it also twists 45 degrees so it points to the chine. This elbow (#1775) was only used with the #1725 and #1935 single piece manifolds and is almost impossible to find. No one has ever reproduced this item because of the limited market and it was originally cast iron not bronze. Once they switched to the two-piece manifold a standard turn to port elbow was utilized. (#1740).

The reverse gear case on the pre-war “M” is different as well as the water pump. The pump had an exposed shaft and had the words Chris-Craft on the side. I am told that the “M” was the further refinement of the “LC” series. I don’t have any data on that engine as of yet, but I can tell you that 32 boats (Model 930) were delivered that year with the “LC”. The “M” continued to be refined and was used until the late 50’s. We will go into some of those derivatives in the later 19' Custom model years.

It is worth mentioning that the “K” engine was used on more boats than one would think. 1939 Model 929’s left the factory with the 95 HP little brute and three boats were special ordered with a Chrysler Crown 95 HP. Every boat with an “M” throughout the years had the same prop—a 13" X 16" X 1" #7974. That’s a lot of pitch!

Most in the hobby agree that the engine color for pre-war is a different shade than post-war. Here again many claim to have the exact match. I believe that Dale Tassel in Florida has the best color codes for pre- and post-war Chris-Craft blue. You can contact him for the PPG color codes.

That wraps it up for the basics of the 1939 19' Custom.